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Thyme out; we're in
We weren't planning to crash John Bubala's reworked Wicker Park spot, Baccala (formerly Thyme Cafe) on opening night, but when we learned we'd be looking at a half-hour wait at every other Italian joint on the block-and there's no shortage of them-we went for the sure thing. (It was a Friday night, after all, and we needed a glass of wine-pronto.)
Observations:
1. Yes, we tried the namesake dish, baccala. It wasn't bad at all. For salt cod.
2. A prediction: If this place takes off, it's going to be on the strength of the meat dishes. We'll definitely be back for the braised short rib and the pork belly.
3. We liked the small, budget-friendly Italian wine list, perhaps because it was stacked with medium-bodied reds to accompany all of those slow-cooked meats.
4. Talk about a no-fuss beer list. The entire selection-10 strong, though they don't yet have everything in stock-is from Goose Island.
5. And get this: The bill for two people (four small dishes, two beers and three glasses of wine) came in at just over $60.
Check New on the Scene for the scoop on more new spots.
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