<<--The spot: The recent opening of KS Seafood essentially doubled the number of Chicago restaurants specializing inTaiwanese food (the other is Mei Shung in Uptown), a cuisine slightly less salty and saucy than many Chinese offerings, and, as this restaurant's name implies, featuring more fish and crustacean-based dishes. Try a texturally fun dish of sea bass encrusted with dry soybean ($21), the popular stir-fried vermicelli ($7.95) or six pieces of pork belly served with steamed buns ($14.95). Braver souls might like dishes such as the fried eels ($7.50); more familiar, Cantonese, Szechwan and Thai options are also served.

The bottle:  Jessica Lerner, manager at Lush Wine and Spirits is a KS Seafood fan. "I love it," she says. "It's so hard to find seafood in Chinatown that's not over-sauced." She has the perfect bottle picked out for a visit: Illmitz, a $14 pinot gris from Austria. "It's got a great, clean finish, and it's not overly floral, so it gives a nice balance; it complements the Taiwanese herbs." Call ahead and Lush will have a chilled bottle waiting for you. --Allison Knab, Metromix special contributor.

It looks like the knives are already sharpening for the new season of "Top Chef." As we reported in New on the Scene, Chef Dale Levitski (who has cooked and consulted everywhere, from Orange to Trio Atelier to La Tache to Stone Lotus) is ready for battle. This is the official bio that Bravo sent to the media:

DALE
AGE: 34
HOMETOWN: Chicago, Ill.
PROFESSION: Chef/Consultant
CULINARY EDUCATION: Self-Taught
SIGNATURE DISH/CUISINE: Croque Monsieur
Chicago native Dale has been a chef for six years, with plans underway to open his own restaurant. Whether he's cooking four-star meals, diving, or doing gymnastics, Dale's competitive edge is undeniable. He has created something he calls "flavor math," where the right number of spices can bring the perfect flavor and taste. He uses French American cultural influences in his cooking, and is serious about putting his skills to the ultimate test. He loves the fact that the other contestants could be "out-cooked by a queer." Dale will say what everyone else is thinking.

You go, grill!

Of course, Levitski won't exactly be breaking any kitchen barriers: The Hearty Boys (a.k.a. Steve McDonough and Dan Smith) already have that distinction--the catering domestic partners, after all, were the first winners of "The Next Food Network Star." And, oh yeah, famed Queer Eye foodie (and Chicago native) Ted Allen ? He'll be a judge on the show.

When we asked Smith about Levitski's comment, Smith said: "I just think it's funny that the queer celebrity chefs are taking over Chicago!"

Speaking of the Hearty Boys, look for HBTV -- think cooking karaoke -- to open mid-summer at 3819 N. Broadway.