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Archive: March 12, 2008

"Top Chef" Chicago Episode No. 1: Quackin' up

Heading into tonight’s premiere, all we could think about was how excited we were that the world was finally going to learn that Chicago cuisine is about more than deep dish pizza and beer. And then “Top Chef” promptly gave the world … deep dish pizza and beer.

 

Not only that, they let a bunch of out-of-towners make a mess of the pizza.

 

OK, it wasn’t all bad. Vegemite and all, Kiwi contestant Mark did a bang-up job recreating a Chicago-style pizza—he even got it right with the sauce on top. And to be fair, it wasn’t just the out-of-town crowd that stumbled. Our local gals, Valerie and Stephanie, didn’t do so well either.

 

Fortunately, Stephanie redeemed herself in the Elimination Challenge. And while Valerie didn’t shine in the elimination round, she did cook well enough to edge out her competitor in the head-to-head and avoid the judge’s table.

 

We’ll wait a week or two before we start making predictions about who’s going and who’s staying; instead, some observations:

 

Bombshell of the night: Jennifer and Zoi are dating. What? This is a first for “Top Chef.” Everyone plays it cool when they drop the news over deep dish at Pizzeria Uno, but you’ve gotta wonder if someone won’t flip out and cry “foul” if one (or both) of them becomes a serious contender.

 

Haircut of the night: Same as Season 3, it’s the faux hawk. What is it with chefs and faux hawks, anyway?

 

Most gratuitous product placement of the night: Not a big surprise, but this honor goes to Glad. Seriously, why are there racks and racks of Glad products in the holding room where the chefs hang out while the judges deliberate? What could they possibly need to bag, wrap or otherwise store while they’re sitting in there sweating it out?

 

Cheftestant with the most villain potential: Richard. Episode 1 and you’re already hogging pizza pans and hoarding mayonnaise? We give you two more weeks before everyone starts calling you Marcel. (The mad scientist clips from your audition tape don’t help your case.)

 

Cheftestant most likely to talk a big game and go home early: Andrew. And if tonight is any indication, he’ll go down cursing and, well, mostly just cursing.

 

Worst plating of the night: Erik’s pepper jack cheese souffle. We kinda like Erik, based on initial impressions, and we definitely felt for him and Zoi for drawing last and ending up with souffles for this challenge. But the black bean sauce smeared across his plate was, um, let’s just say it wasn’t very appetizing and leave it at that.

 

Dish of the night: Hands-down, Stephanie’s duck a l'orange with an Asian twist. (Yeah, we’re biased. So what?) The seared duck breast on maitake mushrooms and bok choy looked good enough, but the braised duck leg spring roll with shitake mushrooms and bok choy was a brilliant addition because it allowed her to use the whole duck and truly update a classic without messing with the fundamentals too much. It put the dish over the edge. Everything looked great, and she wasn’t the least bit cocky about it—in fact, she seemed genuinely surprised and grateful that the judges loved it. She could go far.

 

We'll be back next week for more. Until then, check out our interviews with Stephanie, Valerie and Season 3 finalist Dale Levitski.

Categories: Top Chef Chicago
March 12, 2008 8:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

ALL BOTTLED UP: La Cazuela

The spot: Your neighbor asked you to collect his mail while he’s in Cancun. Your obnoxious coworker can’t stop talking about her upcoming trip to Cozumel. Instead of moping about your own (nonexistent) spring break plans, create the tropical feeling right here at home with dinner at La Cazuela (Click here for info). The bright, casual Rogers Park spot takes its influences from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. Exposed brick walls are decked out with whimsically ocean-themed decorations entwined in a net. And though the enchiladas, burritos and fajitas are all tried-and-true options, it’s the extensive seafood lineup that’s kept neighborhood fans coming back to this family-run business for the past 18 years. The coctel a la campechana grande appetizer, a shrimp, crab meat and octopus cocktail ($14) is a crowd pleaser, as is the big-enough-for-two Seven Seas Soup ($13.99), a hearty melange of  seafood and shellfish. Tilapia or shrimp tacos are $2 each; a meal, which includes three tacos, rice, beans and a salad, is $8.50.

The bottle: The neighborhood has a handful of liquor stores and mini-super markets, but the Super Mercado Roman has everything you need to complete the spring break vibe—including cheap, cold beer. Snag a six-pack of Tecate cans ($5.99) or upgrade to a six-pack of bottled Dos Equis or Sol ($7.99). If you need a fruity drink to feel like you’re really on the beach, grab a bottle of Jose Cuervo Especial tequila ($19) or Bacardi Superior rum ($14.50) to mix with La Cazuela’s non-alcoholic pina coladas, margaritas or daiquiris (all $3.99). La Cazuela charges no corkage fee for the first bottle or six-pack; there’s a $5 charge for any additional bottles or six-packs. --Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com

La Cazuela
Categories: BYOB
March 12, 2008 2:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

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